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Fabric Guide & Screen Printing Tips

Below you will find fabric detials and printing instructions per fabrication. A test sample run is always recommended before printing large quantities.
*For best results we suggest using a poly ink and/or poly blocker for all fabric containing polyester

RETAIL JERSEY
Retail Jersey Fabric
100% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 32 single 4.2 oz/yd2, 142 g/m2. Custom fabrications apply for Athletic Heather, Marble Colors, and Striped colors.
RETAIL JERSEY PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, medium flashing temperature, 10-15% reducer/finesse WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand/ curable reducer at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 320 degrees, 15 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Fashion Film
Heather CVC*
Vintage Jersey Fabric
52% Airlume Combed and ring-spun cotton 48% polyester 32 Singles 4.2 oz/yd^2.
HEATHER CVC PRINTING TECHNIQUES: Plastisol 320 Degrees, Medium flashing temperature, 10-15% reducer. WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand reducer/curable reducer at 5%.
TRIBLEND JERSEY*
Triblend Jersey Fabric
Tees - 50% polyester, 25% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 25% rayon, 40 single 3.8 oz/yd2, 115 g/m2. Jackets - 50% polyester, 25% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 25% rayon, 30 single 5.6 oz/yd2, 190 g/m2. Cardigan - 50% polyester, 37.5% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 12.5% rayon, 30 single 5.6 oz/yd2, 190 g/m2. Black Heather Triblend Fabrication - 70% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 15% polyester, 15% rayon.
TRIBLEND JERSEY PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, viscosity reducer, low cure ink/flash additive, stretch additive, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, low flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. For best results on Solid Black Triblend we suggest using a poly ink and/or poly blocker. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 280 degrees, 8-10 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Premium Plus
FLOWY POLY VISCOSE*
Flowy Poly Viscose Fabric
65% polyester, 35% viscose, 32 single 3.7 oz/yd2, 125 g/m2. Custom fabrications apply for Athletic Heather, Marble Colors, and Striped colors.
POLY VISCOSE PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low/medium flashing temperature, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 280 degrees, 8-10 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Premium Plus
POLY-COTTON FLEECE*
Poly-cotton Fleece Fabric
52% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 48% polyester fleece, 7.0 oz/yd2, 220 g/m2.
POLY-COTTON FLEECE PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand extender, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand reducer, stretch additive, low ink viscosity, retarder at 5%. We recommend the use of a poly blocker and/or poly ink for the best results.
TRIBLEND SPONGE FLEECE*
Triblend Sponge Fleece Fabric
50% polyester, 37.5% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 12.5% rayon, 30 single 8.2 oz/yd2, 278 g/m2.
TRIBLEND SPONGE FLEECE PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, low mesh counts, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, low flashing temperature, low mesh counts, retarder at 5%.
POLY-COTTON JERSEY*
Poly-Cotton Jersey Fabric
52% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton 48% polyester, 40 single 3.6 oz/yd2, 122 g/m2.
POLY-COTTON JERSEY PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, medium flashing temperature, extender base in place of white underbase, soft hand reducer/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, high/low flashing temperature, discharge additive suggested. We recommend the use of a poly blocker and/or poly ink for the best results. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 320 degrees, 15 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Fashion Film
SHEER JERSEY
Sheer Jersey Fabric
100% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 40 single, 3.2 oz/yd2, 110 g/m2. Custom fabrication applies for Athletic Heather
SHEER JERSEY PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, 10-15% reducer/finesse WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand/curable reducer at 5%.
1x1 BABY RIB & 2x1 RIB
1x1 baby rib & 2x1 rib fabric
100% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 30 single 1x1 baby rib knit, 5.8 oz/yd2, 195 g/m2. Custom fabrication applies for Athletic Heather.
1X1 BABY RIB & 2X1 RIB PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, stretch additive, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, stretch additive, low ink viscosity, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 280 degrees, 8-10 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Premium Plus
SLUB*
Slub Fabric
50% polyester, 37.5% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 12.5% rayon, 32 single 4.0 oz/yd2, 136g/m2.
SLUB PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, soft hand/ curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees (120 sec), low flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 280 degrees, 8-10 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Premium Plus.
MARBLE JERSEY*
Marble Jersey Fabric
Womens- 91% polyester, 9% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 40 single 3.5 oz/yd2, 119 g/m2 Mens- 91% polyester, 9% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 30 single 4.0 oz/yd2, 136 g/m2.
MARBLE JERSEY PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low/medium flashing temperature, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 280 degrees, 8-10 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Premium Plus
ACID WASH*
Acid Wash Fabric
52% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 48% polyester, 32 single 4.4 oz/yd2, 149 g/m2.
ACID WASH PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low/medium flashing temperature, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees (120 sec), low/medium flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 320 degrees, 15 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Fashion Film.
MINERAL WASH
Mineral Wash Fabric
100% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 32 single 4.4 oz/yd2, 149g/m2.
MINERAL WASH PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees (120 sec), medium flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 320 degrees, 15 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Fashion Film.
SPECKLED*
Speckled Fabric
50% polyester, 25% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 25% rayon, 32 single 4.0 oz/yd2, 136 g/m2.
SPECKLED PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees (120 sec), low flashing temperature, retarder at 5%. Heat Transfer Vinyl Tips: 280 degrees, 8-10 seconds, medium pressure, Stahls' CAD-CUT Premium Plus.
THERMAL*
Thermal Fabric
MENS/WOMENS - 55% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 45% polyester, 40 single 4.5 oz/yd2, 150 g/m2. BABY - 60% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 40% polyester, 40 single 4.5 oz/yd2, 150 g/m2.
THERMAL PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, low flashing temperature, soft hand/ curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, low flashing temperature, extender base, stretch additive, low ink viscosity, soft hand reducer, retarder at 5%.
DIGITAL FLEECE*
Digital Fleece Fabric
100% polyester, 32 single 6.5 oz/yd2, 220 g/m2.
DIGITAL FLEECE PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand extender, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand reducer, stretch additive, low ink viscosity, retarder at 5%.
MARBLE FLEECE*
Marble Fleece Fabric
85% Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, 15% polyester, 30 single 6.5 oz/yd2, 220 g/m2.
MARBLE FLEECE PRINTING TECHNIQUES: PLASTISOL-320 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand extender, soft hand/curable reducer at 5% WATER BASE INK-300/310 degrees, medium flashing temperature, soft hand reducer, stretch additive, low ink viscosity, retarder at 5%.



ADDITIONAL INKS & ADDITIVE RESOURCES SECTION

Always add modifiers to any ink by strictly adhering to the manufacturers recommendations and guidelines.


COMMONLY USED ADDITIVES / SPECIFICATIONS

Curable Reducer - Great for reducing or thinning down plastisol inks. Use this curable reducer for easier printing through high mesh. Provides softer hand on garment. Typically used sparingly at a 5% ratio.

Discharge - Can be used as a finished ink system or as an additive. ZBF chemical bleaches and streams away dye in fabric to better print on darks. Not all tees are guaranteed dischargeable - always sample print prior to printing large quantities.

Dulling Powder - Provides a matte finish.

Elongation Plastisol - The percentage that a print will stretch from its original length before breaking. Increases elasticity of print. Extremely durable and crack resistant.

Extender Base - Can also be used as an under base in place of white for printing on polyester and cotton / polyester blends to minimize dye migration when a white under base is not the best solution.

Finesse - See Curable Reducer Flash Additives - Lowers the flash gel and temperature of the ink and shortens the amount of flash time required.

Poly White - Low bleed ink to help prevent dye migration ensuring that the colors stay true. The high pigment levels help to prevent sublimation where the ink may react with the synthetic fibers in the fabric and change color.

Puff Additive - Provides a special effect raised print.

Retarder - Recommended for water-based inks when printing larger runs. Helps to create less stick on screen.

Stretch Additive - Used for garments with spandex or stretch fabric.

Viscosity Reducer - Used with plastisol ink. Contains special de-tacking agents that help reduce the amount of ink that adheres to the bottom of the screens when printing wet on wet.


ADDITIONAL COMMONLY USED INKS

Discharge - Works best on 100% cotton garments. Please note that discharge testing is always recommended before printing large quantities. 300 degrees gas dryer is recommended.

HSA (High Solid Acrylic) - This textile ink can be used as a PVC alternative (plastisol is PVC based) to satisfy RSL (restricted substance list) for CPSIA require.

Silicone Inks - Provide excellent elasticity. Recommended for Green-minded companies. Be aware these require a higher cure temperature in the oven.


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